Saturday, December 8, 2007

What comes out of the farm may be something else

From The NST

To enlarge picture (pdf), click here

THAT deep green and crunchy organically grown vegetable sporting a shiny certification logo on its package comes with an assurance.

Loke Siew Foong with a selection of organic foods the company distributes.
Loke Siew Foong with a selection of organic foods the company distributes.
To enlarge picture (pdf), click here
It's a promise that those leaves, beans or gourds were grown at a farm with no nasty pesticides or chemicals, with respect for the earth, and fair treatment for workers.

But, in Malaysia, here's where the official assurance ends - at the farms which produce the organically grown fruits and vegetables.

This is because Malaysia's organic certification scheme covers only the farms, not processors, wholesalers or retailers who get the fresh produce to diners everywhere.

And in the organic way of thinking, that makes the chain incomplete and opens the door to doubt.
Why? Because between farm and store, no one keeps an eye on how those organic greens are handled.

If someone was keeping an eye on things, the requirements would be tough.

Inspectors scrutinise cold rooms to see if strictly organic produce is kept apart from other naturally grown items, how often the room was cleaned and with what, says Loke Siew Foong, who manages organic certified wholesaler Radiant Code.

"They'll have none of that Baygon or Ridsect (insecticide) or even mosquito coils in our stores," says the OAM co-founder.

Everything from lorries that transport the greens to packaging used would also have to be up to scratch.

"The whole idea is that the organic produce doesn't get mixed up with conventionally grown foods."

The certification is also crucial because it doesn't just mean the greens are free of agro-chemicals, explains Gurmit Singh, the executive director of Cetdem.

A certified organic product also gives consumers the assurance that there's been a minimal impact on nature and the produce has been grown in a socially just manner.

"That means no abuse of cheap foreign labour.

"No cutting corners and no cheap alternatives.

"This makes organic farming a demanding business. As a result, initial costs can be high."

Gurmit knows this first hand from Cetdem's own experience with its pioneering organic farm in Sungai Buloh, which the group operated for about a decade.

Often, there were times when Gurmit and his wife, Tan Siew Luang, worked the one-acre farm on their own because no workers were available.

But this level of care and concern is what consumers are really paying for.

How do you know it's organic?

Look for certification

The best assurance is a certification. Look for a logo.

In Malaysia, the Department of Agriculture is the only agency that certifies organic food. It uses the SOM label.

At present, there are only standards to certify organic vegetables and fruits. Retailers should display their certification and customers have a right to ask.

Read the labels

Some products could be certified by an agency in a foreign country like the National Association for Sustainable Agriculture, Australia (Naasa).
Look for the logo that also carries a licence number.
The agencies usually list certified products/companies on their websites. It’s a good way to double-check that no one’s faking a label.

Check out the farm/farmer

Some people buy organic food from farms they know are doing things right, although these may not yet be certified. So visit the source farm if you can. Ask for a recommendation from the store if you aren’t sure.

Trial and error

This isn’t fail-safe but the difference between organic and conventional produce is this:

Fresh organic food very rarely looks the same. It’s not made in a mould. So shapes and sizes are often irregular. A consignment this month will also likely look different from next month’s.

Also it’s full of flavour. It’s very rarely tastes standardised or bland. A tomato should taste like a tomato, not like water.

Tips from the Centre for Environment, Technology and Development Malaysia and Organic Alliance Malaysia.

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